Shoemaking



L. H. BULK.

SHOEMAKING.

APPLICATION FILED APR. I4. 1917.

1,365,765. Patented Jan.18,1921.

Figi 04M UNlTED STATESv PATEhl'l LOUIS Hf .B-UEK, F PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASFllG-NOR, MESNl-ll ASSIGN- MENTS, TO UNITED SHOEMACHINERY CORPORATN. F PATERSN, NEW' J`ER SEY, A. CORPORATION 0F NEW JERSEY.

SHOEMAKING.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented. dan.. to.. 192i..

To all wlwm t may concern.'

Be it known that I, Louis H. BUEK, a citizen of the United States, residing at Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia and State olf Pennsylvania. have invented certain Improvements in hoemaking, oli'V Which the following description, in connec tion with the accompanying drawings, is a specification., like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures..

This invention relates. to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes and more particularly to methods of forming lasted heel seats.

In one of its aspects the invention consists in. preliininarily moldin the lasted heel seat oi* a boot or shoe While in temper into shape to lit the upper surface of a heel, particularly around its margin. It will be understood that in lasting the heel seat of av Welt shoe the overdravvn portions of th`e upper and lining lie more orless unevenly on the surface ol: the insole and the lip of the insole, which is raised in the Welt sewing operation., stands oli from 'the body of the insole. Heretofore it has been the practice to beat down 'the heel seat to shape it for the reception of the outsole. l. have discovered, however., that this lastiid. heel seat may be shaped by molding operation so that the heel may be attached directly thereto.

In carrying ont my improved method the lasted heel-seat is molded while the shoe is in temper from. the lasting operation so as to form a lll-shaped surface lying in a single plane about a central convex portion. Subsequently heel attached with its margin :fitted upon the lll-shaped surface so formed. ln. this way a very close union is formed between the shoe and the heel, the openingof the rand crease being substantially eliminated. This not only improves the appearm ance andlinish of the shoe but facilitates the attaching operation by providing a firm bearing for the heel and removing soft areas from the heel seat. A

In subjecting` the heel Seat to molding pressure, the opstanding lip of the insole is molded down into substantially its original position as a part of the insole. This step is advantageous in that it tends to roduce a solid and compact heel seat. t is believed that the molding of an upstandng .insole lip 'bach into its original position. has

` is attached.

not been heretofore attempted for any purpose in shoeinalring.

In some cases it has been. found desirable to supplement the molding operation. performed on the heel seat by Working the upper and the counter of the shoe toward the heel seat so as to forni a more abrupt shoulder about the margin. ont the heel seat. This tends to close lthe rand crease still inrther by increasing the fullness oi the upper Where it comes into contact with. the heel.

The method oi? my invention may` be car ried out before or alter e insertion of a shank piece in the shoe. 'the shank piece has been inserted. prior tothe molding op eration a transverse shoulder i rined in the shanli.' piece and the breast edge of the heel is fitted into this shoulder when the heel. the shanls: piece has not been, inserted at the, time ot the molding opera4m tion. a transverse shoulder is formed. the material oi the inseam each. side oi the shoe..

I It desired the lieel seat nfiaj'/1 be provided with a covering piece of leatheim or leathern board so located. as to close the openi` be tween the edges ci the overdrawn r.

i u u u un This coveriiiginece, when used, is molde into convex torni and be a part molded heel. seat. v

These and other features of the invcnition will be best 'o derstood andv appreciated. from the following descri'ition of a pre erred embodiment thereol' .s eeted ttor par poses of illustration and shown in the accompanying drawings, in which lhgure l. is vievv in perspective oli the heel seat portion of a lasted shoe;

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing the shoe provided with a shank piece and a heel seat covering piece in condition after the molding operation;

l? 1g. 3 1s a similar View showing a heel in place upon the heel seat, a portion. beingv broken' out to show the cross sectional configuration;

Fig. 4 is a. vien7 in side elevation of the apparatus showing the shoe in process, and

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary vie-W illustrating the effect of the molding operation upon the insole lip.

As shown in Fig. l, the lasted portion of a Welt shoe comprises the outer or leather part l0 and the lining part 12 the margins of Which are drawn inwardly over the insole l4'and secured in place b lasting tacks. The Welt 16 terminates at either side of the shank adjacent to the oint Where the breast of the heel is to be located. The Welt is stitched to the outer and lining parts of the upper and also through the inseam lip 18 Which is raised appreeiably from the body of the insole prior to or during the vvelting o'peration. The condition of the heel seat prior to its treatment in accordance with my invention is shown in Fig. l.

It is entirely practical and within the scope of the invention to subject the lasted heel seat in the condition shown in Fig. l 'directly to the molding operation but in some cases it v,has been found desirable, asindicated in Fig. 2, to insert a shank piece 20 in its usual position between the `material of the inseam at the shank of the slice and to attach a covering,v piece 22 to the heel seat portion before carrying out the molding operation. The covering piece 22 comprises a piece of suitably shaped material of such size as to cover the margins of the overdrawn u per material and the rear end of the shanli) piece 2O.I

Having prepared the heel seat as above outlined a molding die of proper shape .is forced against the heel seat While the latter is still in temper from the lasting operation and the U-shaped surface 24 is formed about the margin of the heel seat. lfVithin the U- shaped surface the central portion of the heel seat is molded into convex form similar in shape to the concave heel seat surface of the heel tol be attached. At the same time a transverse shoulder 26 is molded in the rear end of the shank piece 20 and the material of the inseam at either side of the shank. Against this transverse shoulder 26 the breast edge of theheel is intended to be fitted.

In the molding operation above outlined the inseam lip, which at this stage of the manufacture of the shoe stands at an angle to the insole, is molded doiynivardly into substantially its original position as a part of the insole.

During the molding operation, if desired, the material of the counterportion of the shoe may be Worked toward the heel seat so` as to form a more abrupt shoulder at the margin of the heel seat and shift the fullness of the counter toward the rand crease. As already explained this tends to 'close the rand crease and make -a very close union between the heel and the upper. As indicated in Fig. 4 this operation may be effected by oblique blows of a hammer 28.

Having prepared the heel seat in the maniierabove outlined the heel is glued or cemented in place with its margin fitting against the U-shaped surface 24 4and its `breast edge fitting against the transverse shoulder 26. It Will be seen that since the U-shaped surface 24 lies in a single plane it Will bear fairly against the entire periphery of the heel seat surface of the heel and the opening of the rand creasev will thus be reduced to a minimum. The cemented heel is allovved to remain uiidei pressure until thecement is thoroughly dried and subsequently the union between the heel and the shoe is reinforced by attaching nails driven from inside the shoe. Preliininarily to attaching the heel the outsole 30 is stitched to the welt. The rear portion of the outsole is reduced in thickness to forni a flap 32 which is subsequently turned up and secured to the breast face of the heel.

The method above outlined may be curried out with the :ud cf any suitable uppu ratus, one step being illustrated 'iii llig. Il. As shown iii this ligure a traine 40 is priv vided with a horizontal surface to support a last stand 42 having a pin for entering the pin hole of the last 44 and thus sup porting the heel seat portion of a lasted shoe. A bolt 45 passing loosely through a hole` located eccentrically in the base of the stand;

connects the stand to the frame and serves as a fulcrum about which the stand with the shoe thereon may be moved into and i out of operative position.

The frame has a transverse arm or bar extending from its upright portion and provided at its outer end with a threaded vertical bore for a screw spindle 46. At its upper end the spindle 46 is provided with a hand Wheel 48 by which the spindle may be forced downwardly against the shoe to create the molding pressure. At its lower end the screw spindle 46 is connected through a universal joint to a foot plate 48. The foot plate 48 is adapted to bear upon the upper surface of the mold 50 which is placed upon the heel seat ofthe shoe, the universal joint permitting the foot plate t0 accommodate itself to the angle of the incid. The mold itself comprises a block shaped to cover a predetermined area of the heel scat and having a concave lower surface surrounded by a marginal rib shaped for mold- 'ing the U-shaped flat surface of the heel `blovvs of the hammer 28.

While the invention has been described in connection with the molding of the heel seat of a welt shoe, it is apparent that it would be within the scope of the invention to apply it to the manufacture of turn slices.

Sli

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, that method which comprises, molding vthe lasted heel seat portion of a Welt shoe to form a fiat U-sha d surface and avtransverse shoulder in t e'material of the inseam at each side of the shank and then attaching a heel with its breast edge lying against sald transverse shoulder.

2. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, that method which comprises, moldin th@v lasted heel seat of a welt shoe to close own the upstanding insole lip, and then completing the bottoming operations.

3. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, that method which comprises, molding the lasted heel seat of a welt shoe to close the lip of the insole and form a flat U-shaped surface about the margin of the heel seat, and then attaching a heel to the heel seat so formed.

.4. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, that method which comprises, securing a thin covering piece to the lasted heel seat,

molding the covering piece in convex formy `and molding the portlon of the heel Seat Without thecovering piece to forma flat surface, and attaching a heel with its margin fitting upon the fiat surface.

5. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, that method which comprises, securing a shank piece to the bottom of a lasted shoe, securing a covering piece'to the heel seat overlapping the rear end of the shank, molding the covering piece in convex form, simultaneously molding a transverse shoulder across the shank, and attaching a heel with its breast edge tting against the transverse shoulder.

6. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, that method which comprises molding the upstanding insole lip of a lasted Welt shoe down into its original position as a. part of the insole.

7. The method of manufacturing shoes lwhich comprises convexly molding the heel seat'of a shoe to Whichthe outsole has not yet been attached to fit the concave heel seat of a heel, and then attaching a heel to the heel seat thus molded and 'a sole to the forward and shank portions of the shoe.

In testimonywvhereof I have signed my name to this specification.

LOUIS H. BUEK. 

